Happy New Year Giorgione! I use a BR1 (BT) in IR mode with a BeoSystem 3/PUC/AppleTV and that works allright. I tested your 'case' with my BV7-32 and confirm the BR1 does not control the AppleTV through PUC. In the BeoSystem 3 there is this option to set the TV: "You must set up your television to be operated with a remote control with or without a navigation button."  The 7-32 does not have that option, I expect the problem to lie there (but do not have a solution right now). Can you pair the BR1 with the AppleTV via Bluetooth? I believe there are some Beoworld threads for this. Regards, Johan

Update - out of curiosity I paired the BR1 with the AppleTV and can easily control it. The downside is that for volume control etc you will need to toggle (between BV6 and AppleTV). Regards, Johan

Hi Johan, Thanks for your help. Unfortunately, I don't own a BS3. It would be a slight overkill anyway. And yes, the BR1 works with the ATV via BT, you can pair it with other remotes too. But switching between BT and IR is a little bit annoying, right? :-) Oddly, our some 20 years old BS6 reacts to the motorised stand "arrow" commands left/right, mute etc. coming from the BR1 but does not seem to forward the PUC signals, unlike the BR4. That doesn't make much sense to me and my limited sense of logic. Regards, Giorgione

Hello Giorgione, Yeah, to toggle the remote all the time is not ideal. My remark for the BeoSystem 3 was more to determine where the issue is: I think that the BR1 (and also the Beo4 'navi') use somewhat different IR signals (than a regular Beo4), for the left/right/up/down/confirm commands. And so your PUC does not recognize them. How do you listen to the Core? A potential solution could be to connect the speakers to the BV6, use a BLC (NL/ML converter) between the Core and the BV6, and control your Core (and sources) with your good old Beo4 (given your BV6 has a surround sound option). No toggling whatsoever. Regards, Johan    

Toggling between modes on the BROne/bt is a pia…. ….not much WAF in that. “BLC (NL/ML converter) between the Core and the BV6”. That is exactly what the converter is/was made for - for bridging between old and new Beolink….in order to make controlling simple. The only thing to consider there is, that the BLC needs a wired network connection! Another option would be to push a little further to get the wife to accept a BV11-40…. …..I am sure that in the end she will be happy with that ? MM

Hi MM - good idea! Or change the wife? ? Could a dealer (still) make a dedicated BR1 PUC? That could be a hard way to get there too (however still toggling between BV6 & Core). I like the BV11 route better I guess :-). Regards, Johan

Sure, to me, the BV11 even looks better, fortunately not as good as my wife, though. And it's huge compared to the BV6. Besides that, the BV6 sounds darn good compared with my BV11-46. Last but not least I really dislike disposing still working gear and B&O gear just seems to last forever. Tried my Beo4 w. joystick, works flawlessly. My setup is a little bit unusual. The BV6 -26 is used in stereo mode only, for watching old series or Youtube. In the same room there's a BM8000/BG4002/BL 120 combo. The BM8000 needs an overhaul and since I have a Core and a also Beoamp 2 at hand, I'd like to hook my BG along with the BL120 (eventually 150s) up to these. Or at least give it a try. I normally use the Core along with another BG4002 and BL3s. You see, if I eventually end up with the BL150s, there's even less space for a BV11-40 left. I guess, I'd have to find a descreet place for an IR-Eye...  

Giorgione wrote:

I guess, I’d have to find a descreet place for an IR-Eye…

The Beo4 remotes are so powerful that the IR-eye can probably sit hidden behind another object and still work perfectly.  The IR signal will most likely bounce off the walls to reach the sensor. EDIT:  And on the Beo4 with navi button you can adjust the IR power as follows: Access the service menu by pressing Stby (red dot) + LIST at the same time, and then MENU + (joystick) at the same time. Press ^ several times until the display reads IRPWR: X. Again, 1 is the lowest and 7 is the max IR signal strength (default is 4)

Thanks, Guy! I'll give it a try as soon as I got hold of an IR-Eye. I guess I'd have to find one with a RJ45 plug - or perhaps convert one like shown here): https://doc.oneremote.dk/Vejledninger/31108001-2i1.pdf